The First Time I Saw This Fjord, I Couldn't Breathe
I remember that day perfectly. I was driving the old winding road from Xewkija, GPS pointing at what looked like a random field, and then suddenly — cliff edge and turquoise. Mġarr ix-Xini looks like a miniature Norwegian fjord transplanted to Malta. A narrow canyon with limestone walls, and at the very bottom — sea so clear you can see every stone at five metres depth.
And silence. No sunbeds, no parasols, no speakers blasting music. Just waves and seagulls.
Why You Should Go
- Seahorses — one of the only spots in Malta home to two species: Hippocampus guttulatus and Hippocampus hippocampus - Knights' Tower (1661) — the largest coastal watchtower on Gozo, now open to visitors - "By the Sea" — Angelina Jolie filmed here with Brad Pitt in 2014, during their honeymoon - Kayaks — rental right on the beach, perfect for exploring the cliffs from the water - The Restaurant — one single fish restaurant tucked under the cliffs, fresh catch daily
Diving — Top 10 in Malta
Mġarr ix-Xini is officially one of the top 10 dive sites in all of Malta and Gozo. And I get why.
Depth: 5–20 metres. Visibility: up to 40 metres on good days. On the right side of the bay, at about 12 metres, there's a cavern — you swim into darkness, then light pierces through a crack and it feels magical.
On the west side, two more caves with tunnels and crevices. And on the sandy bottom — seahorses. Small, shy, perfectly camouflaged in the sea grass. The first time you spot one, your heart stops.
Other marine life: octopus, parrotfish, gurnards, pipefish, and at night — night diving here is legendary.
A Dark History — 1551
This beautiful bay holds one of Gozo's darkest memories. In 1551, Ottoman admiral Turgut Reis (Dragut) raided Gozo. Nearly the entire island's population — around 5,000–6,000 people — was captured and marched right here, to Mġarr ix-Xini.
They were loaded onto galleys as slaves.
It was the blackest day in Gozo's history. The island was virtually depopulated. Standing on this beach, looking at the turquoise water, it's hard to believe that thousands of tears once flowed here.
The Tower That Was Built to Watch
110 years after the tragedy (1661), the Knights of Malta built Mġarr ix-Xini Tower — the largest watchtower on Gozo. Designed by Mederico Blondel, it cost 857 scudi. A castellan and a bombardier were stationed here to watch for enemy ships.
Today the tower is restored by Wirt Għawdex and open to the public. The view of the fjord from above — priceless.
Hollywood Comes to Gozo
In August 2014, Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt arrived on Gozo. Officially — for their honeymoon. Unofficially — Angelina was directing her film "By the Sea" here.
Production shut down the entire bay. The restaurant became a film set. Brad walked the pebble beach in a linen shirt, Angelina sat on the terrace overlooking the fjord.
The film didn't exactly conquer Hollywood (5.3/10 on IMDb), but it did one thing perfectly — it showed the world Mġarr ix-Xini. And since then, the bay has earned its status as one of Malta's most photogenic locations.
Our Video
We produced a film from Mġarr ix-Xini — with music, the best shots, and an atmosphere that no photo can capture. Watch:
How to Get There
From Victoria: drive toward Xewkija, then turn south. The road is winding and steep, but any car can handle it. About 10 minutes.
Parking: small, free parking lot at the top, before the descent. In July–August it fills up before 9:00 AM — arrive early or walk from Xewkija (~30 min).
From Mġarr Harbour: about 15 minutes on foot along the coastal path — a beautiful walk.
Pro tip: bring water shoes. The beach is pebbly and the stones can be slippery.
When to Visit
| Period | Water | Crowds | My Rating | |--------|-------|--------|----------| | May–June | 20–24°C | Quiet | Perfect | | July–August | 25–28°C | Packed | Hot, parking nightmare | | Sept–October | 22–26°C | Few people | Sweet spot | | Nov–April | 14–20°C | Empty | Diving OK, wetsuit required |
Best time of day: noon — the sun shines straight down the canyon and the water turns neon turquoise. In the afternoon, the cliff casts shade on one side of the beach.
What's Nearby
- Ta' Ċenċ Cliffs (Sannat) — 26 min walk. Some of the most dramatic cliffs on Gozo, endless horizon views. - Xlendi Bay — 10 min drive. Another sheltered bay with restaurants, diving, and atmosphere. - Xewkija Rotunda — 9 min drive. Massive baroque church dome — impressive. - Għar ix-Xiħ Cave — facing the bay. Prehistoric cave inhabited since 2nd century BC, rediscovered in 2009. - Victoria / Cittadella — 10 min drive. Gozo's fortified capital with views of the entire island.
Mġarr ix-Xini is one of those places where time stops. There's no Wi-Fi (well, almost), no influencers (well, almost), but there is the sea, history, and silence. Go before it changes.
— Monika