The Market That Came Back to Life
Is-Suq tal-Belt ("The City Market") is a Victorian market hall on Merchants Street in the heart of Valletta. Built in 1861 by the British, it spent decades in decline. A thorough renovation completed in 2018 transformed it into one of the capital's most interesting spaces.
Cast iron Victorian architecture housing local produce and restaurants. It functions as a hybrid: a working fresh market in the morning, a lively food hall and bar scene in the evening.
Morning (7am–12pm): The Fresh Market
Come early if you want to see Maltese daily life without the marketing filter. Local vendors lay out:
- Fresh fish: lampuki (dorado), dentici (dentex), tuna, octopus — whatever came in the night before
- Vegetables and fruit: seasonal, from small Maltese farms
- Ġbejna: traditional Maltese sheep's cheese, soft or hard, fresh or cured
- Ftira bżar: traditional bread with butter, tomatoes and cracked pepper — a perfect breakfast for €2–3
Tip: Ask for ġbejna tal-bżar (cheese rolled in black pepper) — it's not available outside Malta in this form.
Afternoon and Evening: Food Hall and Bars
The lower level of the hall contains around fifteen food stands and bars, open until 10–11pm.
What to eat:
- Pastizzi and imħabba (pastry filled with ricotta or mushy peas) — around 50 cents each, completely genuine
- Fenek moqli (rabbit stew) — Malta's national dish; several stands serve it daily
- Lampuki pie — available September–November when the fish is in season
- Ftira Maltija — thick bread pizza, excellent alternative to conventional pizza
Drinks: Several stands pour local wine (Marsovin, Meridiana) and Cisk (Maltese lager). Aperol Spritz for around €5 — Italian standards, Maltese prices.
Shopping: Real Maltese Products
Several shops in and around the market sell genuinely local products:
- Maltese honey (carob or wildflower)
- DOK Malta and DOK Gozo wine
- Maltese olive oil from local groves
- Local jams, sun-dried tomatoes, Gozitan capers
Prices: More than a supermarket, less than airport shops. Quality significantly better than the souvenir stores on Republic Street.
Practical Information
Address: Merchants Street, Valletta (5 minutes from the main Republic Gate entrance) Bus: Any bus to Valletta. Enter the market from Merchants Street or St Paul Street. Hours: Morning market from around 6:30am; food hall until around 10pm. Sunday hours are reduced.