St. John's Co-Cathedral — Gold, Marble and Caravaggio

You stand in front of St. John's Co-Cathedral in Valletta and think: bunker. Stone wall, no ornament. This is deliberate — the Knights followed a principle: austerity outside, all wealth within.

You walk through the door and BAM. Gold. Gold everywhere. A gilded carved ceiling, stone-carved walls, a floor paved with 400 coloured marble tombstones of Knights (you are literally walking over the dead). This is not a church — it is a jewellery box the size of an aircraft hangar.

Why "Co-Cathedral"?

Because Malta has two cathedrals — one on Gozo (in Victoria) and one on Malta (in Mdina, the old Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul). The Knights' church in Valletta only received cathedral status in 1816, and since it did not want to diminish the older one, both carry the title "co-cathedral." Hence "Co-Cathedral."

What You Must Not Miss

• The Oratory — Caravaggio's "Beheading of St. John": The largest painting Caravaggio ever made. Over 5 metres wide. In the pool of blood — the only signature the artist ever placed on a painting.
• "St. Jerome" — the second Caravaggio: In the same room. An old man, a skull, a quill. Simpler but perfect.
• The Floor: 375 marble tombstones of Knights from the 17th and 18th centuries, with coats of arms and inscriptions. You walk through history.
• The Chapels of the Langues: Each of the 8 nationalities of the Order had its own chapel, decorated by its own artists. Each is different and each is spectacular.

Practical Notes

Entry: €15 (includes the Oratory with the Caravaggios). Covered shoulders and knees are mandatory — checked at the entrance. Best early — at 9am there are crowds, but at 4pm and later it is nearly empty. Audioguide included in the price.